Wednesday 13 January 2016

Switzerland by Train and Foot Part 4 -Copyright by Robert Fullarton



Switzerland by Train and Foot Part 4
-Copyright by Robert Fullarton



I remember when I rode upon an old Victorian era steamer through the vast body of lake Brienz. We caught the steamer from Interlaken to journey on to the docks at Giesbach. I remember the sight of the old engines, the rhythmic motions of the steamer were impressive to look at. Japanese tourists manically ran round the boat to get the "perfect" shot and take innumerable selfies from large cameras with tripods that swung round, of course this was an idiosyncratic experience which we laughed about.

The water is aquamarine, the lake is fringed by the high peaks of the Bernese Oberland, with quaint, attractive towns that dot the shores for miles around. The boat would dock and passengers would depart from town to town and then the boat would manoeuver onwards towards to the the town of Brienz. Most passengers however were bound for the docks of Giesbach which is home to the Grand Hotel of Giesbach. This is a gem, surrounded by the elements of natural beauty. This hotel rises from the mantle of the hills, enclosed within a forest and is beside a truly colossal waterfall that plummets with several cascades over the various levels of the hillsides, above the heads of water sodden tourists, little wooden bridges and the green lung of the landscape (this was the largest and longest waterfall I have ever come across, truly it was a natural wonder and an inspiration to anyone's palate for adventure).

After we docked, we caught the local funicular up the side of the mountain to the entrance of the Grand Hotel. We drank hot chocolate while watching little lizards dart in and out of the cracks of the wall. We sat in the shade of the Victorian Grand Hotel (which to me is the most luxurious hotel I have ever encountered) and wandered through its grand lobby, the halls of marble, the chandeliers and nostalgia that evoked something from the fin de siecle period of the late nineteenth century.
We tread upon wooden bridges crossing the gaping mouth of the waterfall that impressively ran from the distant mountains through the terrain in a torrent of milky white water for miles and miles below into the lake itself. The hotel, a lavish construction upon the commanding view of the lake below is a vestige of the old days of tourism, when it was a luxury reserved for the wealth of Europe, particularly those from Britain and Germany who could afford it.

                             

                                                                    II


If you are coming from Wengen or Lauterbrunnen (take the train to Interlaken Ost) or even from Interlaken for that matter you have to take the train to Interlaken and get off at the village of Wilderswil where you will cross the tracks and catch a small red locomotive for a unique, breathtaking train journey up the side of the peaks, where you will catch a brilliant panoramic view of Lake Thun. There are different stops on the ride up to the top for those who want to stop, look and walk. The train twists and snakes around many cliff edges where you will see jaw dropping scenery, akin to that from a movie. Goethe apparently rode a horse through the snowy heights to reach the summit after hours of tough labourious travelling. The schynige platte is a must for any tourist to this region as it is the cherry on the rather lusciously good Swiss cake that is the treat, called the Bernese Oberland!

The Alpine Garden is situated on the very peak of the Schynige platte, and it is perfect for those who are lovers of botany,and horticulture. You will find a perfect display of what the region has to offer, edelweiss (unfortunately does not come to blossom until July) amongst a carpet of meadow flowers that are all conveniently given their proper name for all amateurs in this field, such as myself. Often there will be locals ready to greet you with the sound of the Alpine Horn, enjoy the sound of the alps!

However from the top of the Alpine Garden, you can (if you are really having a good day!) see Golden eagles, red kites, Buzzards, a ring-ouzel, snow finches etc etc as I did on my visit that day! This is also a perfect place to look out for the black, unique Alpine salamander that dwells in the rocks between the elevations and levels of the land.

Be careful when buying anything off the vendor set up beside the train station, you will pay at least double what you will pay in your local Coop supermarket. It can be cold up on the top, oxygen levels are a little lower. The views are brilliant of the surrounding valleys and the train is a fine piece of nostalgia. Remember it took years for the train lines to reach this point and the photos on display there will show this. Years and years of hard labour, with the ingenuity of engineers and technicians there

I had the regional pass along with the Swiss Card, so this trip did not cost me a penny. But one must have deep pockets to even exist in Switzerland. Switzerland is the drink of the aesthete, much of the landscape looks like a finished canvass from God, enjoy the natural beauty, but be aware that all such privileges and luxuries will cost you money!

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